Vita Pricksjukan / Karantän

[Bubbles Bubbles]

Fick vitapricksjukan i mitt akvarium för nån vecka sen. Började behandla för sent så tyvärr dog alla fiskar. Men det är bara att bita ihop och köpa nya. Nån som vet hur länge man ska vänta med att lägga i nya fiskar??? Med andra ord; hur länge kan smittan finnas kvar i vattnet efter att fiskarna dött. Sjukdomen är ju egentligen en parasit och jag har hört att dom kan lägga ägg och fler kan kläckas efter hand. Stämmer det? Ska jag byta delar av- eller allt vatten? Behöver hjälp!

[guppy]

Jag är också helt grön på det har med vita prick sjukan. Men när man behandlar så är det parasiterna på fiskarna man behandlar när man ger medicin flera dagar i sträck. Sedan gör man ett uppehåll på tre dagar och då ger medicinen sig på nykläckta parasiter. Min egen uträkning ger svaret att det tar tre dagar för parasiter att kläckas.
Nu har jag haft tur och ingen av mina fiska dog pga. sjukdomen. Men jag skulle nog antingen medicinera en omgång nu efter för säkerhets skull eller tömma akvariet, städa och börja om från början.
Som sagt jag är helt ny
men någon hjälp kanske det gav<img src=extra_smiley_spin.gif border=0 align=middle>

[cri]

Hej Bubbles,

Vita pricken sjukdomen verkar vara en utav de vanligaste parasit sjukdomarna men inte så svår att få bukt med om man använder salt. Kläckningen verkar vara mellan, som Guppy skrev, ca 3 dagar men kan vara upp till 21 dagar beroende på vatten temperaturen. Något behövs nog göras vattnet innan du fyller på med nya fiskar. Kanske någon annan vet mer eller har ett bÄttre råd?
cri

http://www.koivet.com/html/articles/articles_details.php?article_id=22&category=17&nam e=Diseases

Freshwater Ich - Ichthyophthirius multifilis - is a killer of very small fish, and can cause "redskin" disease in the winter regardless of fish size.
Look closely at gill tissue under the microscope to be sure to exclude this pathogen, because it does not usually cause the typical "white spot" syndrome as in other fish. Therefore, it's often an overlooked diagnosis. Clears easily with Salt (0.3%) but sometimes takes four to five days because the epidermal phase (explained in the book) is safe from treatment
If I had to guess, I would guess that every singe hobbyist in the whole world WILL encounter Ich at some time. Usually the meeting occurs early on, as a beginner, before water quality parameters such as Ammonia, Nitrites and 'The Cycle' become more familiar, and 'Quarantine' is just a high ideal observed by a few pathetic perfectionists.

What is 'Ich'?

Freshwater Ich (Ichthyophthirius multifilis) is a ciliated protozoan that encysts under the epidermis of the fish; and, in its encysted condition, causes small white spots all over the fishes body and fins. In some cases, Ich spots may be present, but will not be visible. You may still see them under the scope, or you may see them exclusively on the gills. This is how infected fish may get into a tank without being detected, even if quarantined for a period of time. Asymptomatic carriers can sustain a population of Ich in a tank or pond for an indefinite period. Sometimes an owner will purchase a new fish who, being immunologically naive to Ich, will contract the condition immediately upon introduction to an 'endemic' (already infected but asymptomatic) group of fish. If a fish contracts Ich, and survives without treatment, they have shown strong immunity to re-infection, indicating that the potential for a vaccine exists, and is being worked on at University of Georgia and other institutions. It would have astonishing impac on the Catfish industry if it could be achieved.

Ich rapidly kills smaller tropicals and goldfish, while often sparing the larger varieties (fish such as Oscars and Koi). Damage to the gills is the primary way it kills, but damage to the skin with secondary bacterial infection may also figure prominently.
Its life cycle is roughly 2-5 days, but can be longer (5+ weeks!) if the water is cool, much shorter if the water is warmer. There is the old rumor that warm water eradicates it. This is substantially true when temperatures exceed 85 degrees, however; there are strains coming out of Florida and detailed by researchers at University of Florida that can survive and thrive up to NINETY degrees or more! Recall that many of our bread and butter species of tropicals come from Florida, and so may harbor this heat tolerant strain.

The parasite has a phase that encysts in the epidermis of the fish as previously stated (called a theront). It matures under the skin and finally drops off, falling to the bottom (becoming a trophont) to divide into numerous (hundreds) of tiny swarmers (tomites) that actively seek out a host on which to encyst and renew the cycle of infection. Because an important phase of its life cycle occurs on the bottom of the aquarium, it is for this reason that you can help limit infections with water changes made by siphoning the gravel, removing those dividing Ich packets.

Prevention is attended at the wholesale level by the maintenance of a 0.3% salt solution which crenates (kills) the emerging tomites. We do not recommend that you as a hobbyist maintain this salt level all the time because live plants can be killed by this, and all species of fish are NOT universally tolerant of this. Still, many have found that salt is a very effective annihilator of Ich infections if normal precautions are observed.

There are numerous reasons to reach for salt, first, for Ich.

1) It does not harm the majority of fish species.
2) It does not push sick fish 'over the edge.'
3) It eliminates, QUICKLY, most of the serious pathogens of tropicals.
4) It does not get bound out of the system by organics or sunlight.
5) It does not pose a health risk to humans contacting it.
6) It is CHEAP, CHEAP, CHEAP.
7) It WON'T harm your filter if administered in divided doses.

Salt can be used in freshwater systems by adding one teaspoon of salt to each gallon of water every twelve hours for three treatments. You are gradually increasing the salinity to a level of 0.3% or three teaspoons per gallon total. The dose goes in gradually over 36 hours to avoid shocking the filter (especially Nitrobacter, which results in a short Nitrite surge). Some sensitive fishes will also do better when salted if it's added so gradually. Salt should be of the non-iodized table salt variety, or an Aquarium salt recommended by the Pet Shop. Live plants can be killed or yellowed by this, so be careful to remove these before treatment. As a general rule, plants with a defined root system will usually survive salting, while floating varieties like Anachris, Cabomba and Wisteria are flatly killed. My Apons died back 50%, Cryptocoryne couldn't care less, Pennywort hated it but did not die, Anubias yellowed and recovered, in the ponds, Lilies yellow marginally but do not even stop flowering. Iris is impervious, and Hyacinths hate it but they only yellow in the older leaves, and bounce right back.

What can salt do for me?

Salt at 0.3% is credited with the clearance of the following:
Ichthyophthirius (72 hours at tropical temperatures)
Chilodinella (24-36 hours)
Costiasis (Ichthyobodo necatrix)
Almost every single Trichodiniid/Tripartiella organism.
Glossatella (24 hours irregardless of temp)
Scyphidia (24 hours irregardless of temp)
Epistylis (24 hours irregardless of temp)
Trichophrya (24 hours irregardless of temp)
External Tetrahymena
Inhibits trematode reproduction, clears 30% of adults.
Inhibits Lerneiid reproduction

Is there a type of fish to be careful with?

Salt has been reported in some instances to cause health problems for the following fish:
1. Wild caught Discus. (Captive born specimens have no problem at all.)
2. Some Brokis britskii catfish
3. Otocinclus
4. Rafael Catfish
5. Ram Cichlids
6. Neon tetras
7. Cardinal Tetras
8. Tiger Barbs and Sharks die suddenly if chased with a net while salted.
Note. The divided dosing schedule has alleviated alot of these problems, but use salt at your own risk in these cases. Sometimes the numbers of fish you have from these groups make them somewhat 'expendable' in the interest of saving the other fish.

How long do I leave it in the water?
Fourteen to 21 days may be required to totally eradicate certain parasites at certain temperatures. Rest assured, it could stay in the water forever. But for Ich it could also be removed within seven days and recurrence of Ich would be unlikely if temperatures during treatment were around eighty degrees F. Ten to fourteen days is suggested 'for best results' with Ich.

Removal is by simple partial water changes. Be careful that the effluent water is not wasted onto a precious Japanese Maple or your Dad's best Bermuda grass as it could do it some damage.
I traditionally use salt for most protozoan parasites, especially Ich, and the wholesalers/retailers who rely upon it have thanked me for the tip. To name just a few, Suburban Water Gardens, Blue Ridge Hatchery, One of Kind Koi, Willow Pond, Finn's Aquatics and Marine Life all provide superior fish to their retailers through the use of 0.3% salt in all freshwater species but their most sensitive South American imports. I use salt because so many other medications for Ich are caustic to the fish, reduce dissolved Oxygen levels, and can tend to disable the filter bacteria that remove Ammonia.

To recap my points, here's the nuts and bolts of Salting Ich..

1. Remove valued live plants.
2. Raise temperature to 80 degrees, tops.
3. Increase aeration!
4. Add one teaspoon of salt per gallon.
5. Twelve hours later, add another one teaspoon of salt per gallon.
6. Twelve hours later, add another one teaspoon of salt per gallon.
7. Within 48-60 hours of the second salt dose at 80 degrees, the Ich will be gone.
8. Leave salt in the water for another 3-5 days unless you're worried about your live plants.
9. Remove salt via partial waterchanges. (30-40% at a time if desired).

[guppy]

när du skrev om temperatur kom jag på att i akvarieaffären sa killen att jag måste ha minst 28 grader, för över den tempen utvecklas inga nya parasiter.
Men jag vet ju inte om det är rätt
Anna

[cri]

Hej!

Det verkar stämma fast tydligen finns det nu vissa parasiter som kan överleva upp till 90F = 31.44C

Mina Black Moors (Svarta telescope?) fick vita pricken sjukan en gång och det hjälpte med enhögre salthalt i ett par dagar.

"There is the old rumor that warm water eradicates it. This is substantially true when temperatures exceed 85 degrees, however; there are strains coming out of Florida and detailed by researchers at University of Florida that can survive and thrive up to NINETY degrees or more!"

cri
<img src=extra_smilie_tandkarp.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=extra_smilie_tandkarp.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=extra_smilie_tandkarp.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=extra_smilie_tandkarp.gif border=0 align=middle>

[Bubbles Bubbles]

Tack så mycket för hjälpen! Ska medicinera några dar till för säkerhets skull och lägga i lite extra salt. Tyvärr så har jag ingen doppvärmare så jag får nog inte upp det i mer än 22-23 grader. Testar med att byta runt 1/2 av vattnet och köper några billigare fiskar som "försöks objekt"

[Kjell Fohrman]

Hej,
Kallt vatten i akvariet är ofta en utlösande faktor för vita prick. Eftersom ditt akvarium inte är varmare så se till att enbart ha fiskar som trivs i lite kallare vatten.
Akvaristiska hälsningar
Kjell