Ryukin (slöjstjärt) Flyter som en kork

[Tiindraa]

Hej

Har en slöjstjärt (Ryukin) som flyter omkring som en kork.. Har kikat omkring på nätet och läst lite om simblåsan. Verkar som att det är nåt åt det hållet.

När han väl simmar omkring så simmar han rätt, men så fort han slutar röra sig så vänder han sig upp och ner med buken upp mot ytan. Ser oxå att han är lite uppsvullen och fjällen står ut en aning.

Så frågan är då vad jag kan göra !? Sen varför det kan ha blivit så. Foder består av små kulor som jag blötlägger till dom svullnat upp. Kan det vara fel foder?!

[eriahl]

Har du tur har den svalt luft. Får väl avvakta och se några dagar iaf vad som händer

[Tiindraa]

kan hoppas att det e det.. Men nu när du säger det så brukar han vara uppe vid ytan och ibland kan man se att munnen e ovanför ytan o "blubbar"..

[Lenmar]

Ibland kan de svälja luft när de äter. Testa att blötlägga maten innan du matar.

[Tiindraa]

Ibland kan de svälja luft när de äter. Testa att blötlägga maten innan du matar.

Jag blötlägger redan kularna tills dom har svällt till max

[Aquastyle]

Detta är ett ganska vanligt problem med slöjstjärtar.
Det är gaser snarare än luft, som orsakar problemet.

Testa ett annat foder.
Tyvärr brukar det inte bli annat än marginellt bättre, är min erfarenhet.

Ytterligare en effekt att skylla på sönderavling. Tyvärr. =o(

[wahlen]

Jag har en zebrafisk som får slagsida och flyter med huvudet uppåt så fort den inte simmar. Tror jag såg vad som hände: den simmade runt och busade i en himla fart tills den krockade med en syresten (utströmmare). Troligen fick den då i sig luft...
Hoppas det går över.

[Insomniac]

För att citera mig själv i den andra tråden:
Kan du berätta mer om akvariet? Hur stort är det och hur många fiskar? Hur länge har du haft fisken? Temperatur? Har du testat vattenvärdena (isåfall posta dem här)?
Tror inte det är luft/gaser som orsakar det när fjällen står ut. Snarare någon infektion.
Att den "bubblar" vid ytan beror på att vattnet är syrefattigt förresten, men har troligtvis inget med det här (vad den nu har för sjukdom) att göra.

[PetitJolie]

Mata med ärtor brukar vara jättebra om slöjstjärtarna har svalt luft eller har problem med gaser!

[tiztel]

en fråga ..??

Mata med ärtor brukar vara jättebra om slöjstjärtarna har svalt luft eller har problem med gaser!

hur menar du med mata med ärtor vanliga ärtor som man äter som är gröna & gula & kan man ge dom det även om dom inte har svalt luft ..??

[Lenmar]

Tinade frysta gröna ärter använder jag ibland. Jag trycker ur "kärnan" mellan fingrrna, slänger skalet och mosar den lite lätt mellan fingrarna när jag matar.

[cri]

Kork/floating

http://www.mu.edu/~buxtoni/puregold/disease/symptom/symptom.htm#floating%20problems

Svårta tt veta varför men jag har harft tur med de fiskar som råkat ut för detta och lyckats få dem att simma normalt genom att följa nedanstående.

Ingen mat på 3-4 dagar, temp 28c, tub to tub metoden (byta vatten 1gg per dag), lite salt i vattnet.

FLOATING PROBLEMS, SWIM BLADDER DISEASE
NEW THINKING ON FLOATING
Floating problems are complex. If it occurs only after feeding, see below.
Females full of eggs can have balance problems.
Dropping a fish can result in swim bladder damage.
Toxins can cause swim bladder problems.
Cranial kidney and floating
It can also be due to problems with regulation of the air bladder. This organ can be damaged by medications and treatments before you even bought your fish. One is "tranquilizers" put into the water when fish are shipped. The damage does not show up right away.
The primary cause of floating is feeding food that floats and/or too much food at one time. Soak the food and squeeze the air out so the food sinks. Best is to get high quality sinking food. Or, feed foods that sink, like grapenuts, rice, veggies, oatmeal. If feeding is only done once a day, feed at night, and all they can eat for 5 minutes. If twice a day, all they can eat in 3 minutes.
The other parameter here is temperature. Increasing the temp of the water seems to ease the floating problem. The activity of their digestive tract increases with increased temperature. However, increased oxygenation of the water must be done at the same time.
For a fish that is already floating, check the belly (see the 3 point physical). IF the fish is fine according to the 3 point check, or if the fish is constipated: The minimalist approach is to not feed the fish for 3 days and if it stops floating, then resume feeding but soaked/sinking food with more veggies like peas.
The more aggressive approach is to feed a pea with a crystal of epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) in it to the fish. Epsom salts is a purgative.
Even more aggressive is to do a salt dip on the fish. This purges the fish out. Ammonia levels must be watched carefully.
If this doesn't work, there is a procedure called the "Chinese Water" method. The fish is put into a tub and only enough water is added to just cover the back fin. The fish is not fed for 4 days. If the fish is upright, each day a little more water is added (the fish must be moved to fresh, aged water each day to move it away from ammonia accumulation). After 4 days, if the fish is upright in deeper water, then a couple peas can be fed. After that, gradually add a little more food.
Another cause of damage is toxins in the water. One of the most common is hydrogen sulfide produced by anaerobic bacteria that live in areas with low oxygen, like the gravel in tanks. GF are bottom feeders and will turn gravel over looking for food. I have seen a GF turn over a piece of gravel
and go into distress. Thought the GF had got the gravel caught in the mouth but gravel could not be seen. The fish displayed balance problems for quite a while. Chronic low levels of toxins with hydrogen sulfide can lead to persistent and finally permanent floating problems. This typically
occurs when the gravel is cleaned by siphoning and the crud gets mixed in the water. The gas is released during siphoning. H2S toxicity should be suspected when a fish shows balance problems during or right after cleaning gravel. Increasing oxygenation of the tank helps the low oxygen problem
somewhat.
Getting rid of gravel in tanks prevents the problem entirely. Using potassium permanganate at 1/2 strength in the tank during cleaning can also prevent toxing with H2S. PP reacts instantly with H2S and organic compounds and turns from pink to yellow.
OK.. here is the deal. Jo Ann and I been in discussion about floating and "swim bladder" disease. I have never been able to get past the fact that the explanation doesnt fit the observations.
>The fish floats upside down.
>The swim bladder is at the "top" of the fish under the back.
>Necropsies of "floaters" show the swim bladder is full.
I can see where a fish that cannot submerge, or cant get off the bottom may have a dysfunctional swim bladder, but it doesnt explain "upside down" I was reading in Stoskopf (p. 127) "Gas-forming enteritis can mimic disease of the swim bladder. In addition to the development of abnormal swimming postures, bulges from gas-filled bowel can cause the clinician to misidentify the bowel as the swim bladder. "
Now THIS would explain a fish being upside down. The belly has a greater quantity of gas than the swim bladder and the fish flips over. IN addition, I have seen this "bulging" of sides of the fish and especially at the back of the fish leading to that "dumpy" look. The fish is often curved, as if muscles on one side are not operating (on the side that is bulging out) and the muscles of the side curved in seems to be permanently contracted. Most likely is that the gas so fills up one side that it pushes that side up and it is impossible for the fish to straighten out. Think of those of us who get "gas" and how contorted we can be trying to find a position to avoid the pain. In support of the pain theory, in those fish I have made little weighted jackets for, the fish seemed to be in discomfort at the bottom of the tank. Altho subtle in a tank, the pressure might also be painful. In fish with egg binding, the eggs are often infected, and this could lead to gas formation as well, also with the fish flipping over.
CURRENT TREATMENT
In cases of enteritis that I have had with my dogs, the treatment was no food or water for a couple days to give the inflammation of the intestines a chance to calm down combined with antibiotics. The recommended treatment for possibly food related floating is no food, epsom salts with a pea, heat. The recommendation for egg binding is epsom salts, heat and antibiotic food.
SUGGESTED NEW TREATMENT
First try to determine if the fish has any parasites and treat for that.
Then put the fish into a 10 or 20 gallon tank and just put in enough water to cover the fish. Use filtration!!! Ammonia MUST be carefully monitored and water changed if the filtration is not removing it. Whisper filters may need to have the "joints" sealed with silicone to keep the siphon working in lowered water .. even the basket on the bottom may need to be removed and a piece of aquarium foam tied on.
Add 1 teaspoon of epsom salts to the water. Do not add more, even if some water needs to be changed. Do not add any regular salt.
Lay and attach a heater along the corner where the sides and floor of the tank meets so that the fish CANNOT end up laying on it and frying their side. Crank the heat up to 84oF. Put an airstone in front so it will move the water up and away from the heater.
Treat any surface sores with antibiotic creme, like Panalog (at the vets) or neosporin.
Do not feed the fish for up to 4 days. Look for expelling of airy, bubbly poops and get them out of the tank.
On the 4th day feed the fish 1/2 of normal rations of high protein (sinking, or soaked and squeezed) food for 4 days. After that, normal amounts of sinking food.
The fish needs to be "walked" while in the tank. This involves placing your hand underneath the fish to get it upright and slowly moving it thru the water to get the fins moving. Do this as many times as possible during the day for about 3 minutes each time until the fish is swimming on its own. This could take up to 3 months if the fish has been floating for a long time.